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Mokume Gane Ring Design Guide

Explore your Options

Andrew Nyce Designs allows you to custom design your own unique Mokume Gane wedding band, commitment ring, or engagement ring. Use this guide to Explore your Options when it comes to designing the Mokume Gane ring that is right for you.

Contact us. We would be happy to discuss, in detail, any questions you may have about the ring design.

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Selecting a Mokume Gane Composition
Selecting Ring Shape
Selecting Ring Dimensions
Selecting Precious Metal Ring Design Elements
  - Selecting a Precious Metal Ring Liner
  - Selecting Precious Metal Ring Edges
  - Selecting a Precious Metal Ring Channel
  - Selecting a Precious Metal Inlaid Band
Selecting Ring Profile and Comfort Fit
Selecting Ring Surface Finish
Selecting Gemstones
Selecting a Gemstone Setting
Selecting Channel and Flush Set Gemstones
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Selecting a Mokume Gane Composition

Mokume Gane is made by forging and rolling alloy sheets made from precious metals including Gold, Platinum, Palladium, and Palladium-enhanced Sterling Silver. Andrew Nyce Designs selects all of its Gold alloys for the vibrancy and deepness of their color. As a result, the contrast between the Gold alloys and the Platinum, Palladium, and Palladium-enhanced Sterling Silver is maximized for each uniquely designed Mokume Gane composition. We produce all of our Mokume Gane in-house. Andrew Nyce Designs offers the following two-, three- and four-tone Mokume Gane compositions.

two-tone Mokume Gane colors
Glacial Mist Palladium White Gold Mokume Gane Glacial Mist - PW Mokume Gane evokes the silvery shimmer of a crisp, swirling mist rising from an arctic glacier. It is composed of layers of 14K Palladium White Gold and Palladium-enhanced Sterling Silver. Twist pattern "wood grain" Mokume.
Glacial Mist Palladium Mokume Gane Glacial Mist - Palladium is an optional Mokume Gane composition containing Palladium 500 in place of 14K PW. This composition, which has the exact same appearance and color contrast as Glacial Mist PW, offers an exceptional value at an attractive price. Twist pattern "wood grain" Mokume.
Glacial Mist Palladium Contour Mokume Gane Glacial Mist Contour is a random pattern version of Glacial Mist Palladium Mokume Gane. Available with a channel or a liner. Randomly patterned "wood grain" Mokume.
three-tone Mokume Gane colors
Ashes and Snow Platinum Mokume Gane Ashes and Snow - Platinum Mokume Gane is a zen rendering of swirling ashfall falling softly on a quiet, white landscape. It is composed of layers of 950 Platinum, 14K Palladium White Gold, and Palladium-enhanced Sterling Silver. Twist pattern "wood grain" Mokume.
Ashes and Snow Palladium Mokume Gane Ashes and Snow - Palladium is an optional Mokume Gane composition containing Palladium alloys in place of Platinum and 14K PW. This composition, which is slightly lighter in appearance than Ashes and Snow Platinum, offers an exceptional value at an attractive price. Twist pattern "wood grain" Mokume.
Ashes and Snow Mokume Gane Platinum Contour Ashes and Snow Platinum Contour is a random pattern version of Ashes and Snow Platinum Mokume Gane. Available with a channel or a liner. Randomly patterned "wood grain" Mokume. Ashes and Snow - Palladium Contour also is available.
Canyonlands Trigold Mokume Gane Canyonlands TriGold embodies the dramatic and colorful landscape of Southeastern Utah. It is composed of layers of 18K Yellow Gold, 14K Palladium White Gold, and 14K Red Gold. Twist pattern "wood grain" Mokume.
Taos Sunset Mokume Gane Taos Sunset Mokume Gane reflects the ancient spirits and beauty of the New Mexico highlands. It is composed of layers of 18K Royal Yellow Gold, Palladium 500, and Palladium-enhanced Sterling Silver. Twist pattern "wood grain" Mokume.
Santa Fe Mokume Gane Santa Fe Mokume Gane brings the eclectic artistry of the New Mexico enclave to life. It is composed of layers of 14K Red Gold, Palladium 500, and Palladium-enhanced Sterling Silver. Twist pattern "wood grain" Mokume.
four-tone Mokume Gane colors
Maui Sunset Mokume Gane Maui Sunset Mokume Gane suggests trade wind kissed tropical sunsets over a calm sea. It is composed of layers of 14K Red Gold, 18K Royal Yellow Gold, Palladium 500, and Palladium-enhanced-Sterling Silver. Twist pattern "wood grain" Mokume.
three-tone Accented Mokume Gane
Catalina Accented Mokume Gane Catalina Accented Mokume emulates the idyllic and breathtaking beauty found on this island off the Southern California coast. It is composed of layers of 18K Royal Yellow Gold, Palladium 500, and Palladium-enhanced Sterling Silver. Twist pattern "wood grain" Mokume. Compare this bolder Accented pattern with Taos Sunset.
Coronado Accented Mokume Gane Coronado Accented Mokume is an homage to the famed Hotel Del located on Coronado Island off San Diego. It is composed of layers of 14K Red Gold, Palladium 500, and Palladium-enhanced Sterling Silver. Twist pattern "wood grain" Mokume. Compare this bolder Accented pattern with Santa Fe.
Monterey Accented Mokume Gane Monterey Accented Mokume parallels the artistic sensibilities of its namesake historic city on the Central California coast. It is composed of layers of 950 Palladium, Palladium 500, and Palladium-enhanced Sterling Silver. Twist pattern "wood grain" Mokume. Compare this bolder Accented pattern with Ashes and Snow.

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Selecting Ring Shape

Two ring shapes are available for Mokume Gane rings: Round and Cathedral. The Round shape is available for all rings. Cathedral shapes are available for Engagement Collection rings only.

Round is a traditional shape and the most popular. The Cathedral shape has either a liner or a channel as part of the ring design. The gemstone setting is held in place on top of the liner or channel, between the two open ends of the Mokume band.

Ring shapes available for customized Mokume Gane wedding bands and engagement rings.
Mokume Gane Round Ring Shape Mokume Gane Cathedral Shape
Round Cathedral

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Selecting Ring Dimensions

Customization of your Mokume Gane ring includes selecting not only the Mokume Gane color and ring shape, but also the dimensions of the ring, including ring size, overall width of ring, and ring thickness.

Ring Size
Andrew Nyce Designs offers Mokume Gane wedding rings in sizes 4 to 14. Requests for rings smaller than size 4 or larger than size 14 are handled on a case-by-case basis. Engagement rings are offered in sizes 4 to 10.

You will need to provide your ring measurement in quarter-size increments. When you order a ring from Andrew Nyce Designs, we will send you a set of calibrated ring finger gauges to ensure an exact fit. If you purchased a wide or narrow ring, you will be sent a corresponding narrow or a wide ring gauge along with instructions on how to obtain your ring size accurately.

Overall Width of Ring
ring-widthsAndrew Nyce Designs offers ring widths from 4mm to 10mm in 1mm increments as well as a 3.5mm ring width for selected styles. We DO NOT recommend a ring width smaller than 3.5mm because the Mokume pattern will not be as visible in such a narrow ring. Overall ring width includes the width of both the Mokume Gane band and any design elements (edges, liners or channels).

The overall width and thickness of the ring should conform to your finger size and shape. Other factors for determining optimal overall width and thickness include whether the ring has additional design elements (edges or channels) or a surface contour and Comfort Fit.

For example, as shown in the diagrams, if you select a ring with an overall width of 6mm, the width of the Mokume Gane band will vary depending upon whether or not you select any design elements.

For rings with channels or edges, overall ring widths smaller than 4mm, while available upon request, do not allow the Mokume Gane pattern to be adequately shown and are not recommended.

For an overall ring width of 8mm or more, your ring size should be measured using a wide ring finger gauge.

Ring Thickness
Ring thickness includes the thickness of both the Mokume Gane band and any ring design element, such as a liner or channel. Optimal ring thickness depends upon the size and shape of your fingers as well as the overall ring width. For example, a ring with thickness of 3mm would be very uncomfortable in a small (size 5) and wide (10mm) ring. Andrew Nyce Designs generally will provide recommendations to you for ring thickness. Optimal ring thickness ranges between 1.5mm and 2.25mm thick for all ring sizes. » top

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Selecting Ring Design Elements

Several design elements can be incorporated into the design of your customized Mokume Gane ring. Each adds its own sense of aesthetic value to the ring and accentuates the Mokume Gane band. Andrew Nyce Designs offers the following ring design elements: liners, edges, channels and inlaid bands.

You may opt to select a ring that does not have any ring design elements. In this case, the Mokume Gane pattern will be visible from the inner and outer sides of the ring.

Andrew Nyce Designs designed the Essentials Collection to showcase Mokume Gane rings unadorned with any ring design options. To view The Essentials Collection, select this link.

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Selecting a Precious Metal Ring Liner

Liners are bands of precious metal alloy attached to the inside of the ring that provide a clean, elegant look.

ring liner

A liner draws attention to the Mokume Gane pattern on the top surface of the ring while hiding the pattern on the underside of the ring.

Andrew Nyce Designs offers ring liners in the following materials:

  • Palladium-enhanced Sterling Silver
  • 950 Palladium
  • 14K Red Gold
  • 14K Yellow Gold
  • 14K White Gold
  • 14K Palladium White Gold
  • 18K Red Gold
  • 18K Royal Yellow Gold
  • 18K Palladium White Gold
  • 950 Platinum
Andrew Nyce Designs offers the option of adding a liner to its Mokume Gane rings. You have the option of adding a liner to all Essentials, Meridian, and Wedding Sets rings, as well as, select Engagement rings.

People with very sensitive skin may react to Sterling Silver, which is used in some of our Mokume compositions. If you have this type of sensitivity, a liner forms a barrier that limits contact between your ring finger and the Sterling Silver.» top

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Selecting Precious Metal Ring Edges

Edges are narrow rings of precious metal alloy attached to the sides of the Mokume Gane band and provide a defined, elegant look for your ring.

ring edges

Edges enable the Mokume Gane pattern to stand out by framing it between precious metal alloys that are complementary in color.

Andrew Nyce Designs offers ring edges in the following materials:

  • 950 Palladium
  • 14K Red Gold
  • 14K Yellow Gold
  • 14K White Gold
  • 14K Palladium White Gold
  • 18K Red Gold
  • 18K Royal Yellow Gold
  • 18K Palladium White Gold
  • 950 Platinum

Edges are created in proportion to the width of the band of Mokume Gane. The Mokume Gane band generally is 6 to 7 times wider than an edge. The standard edge width is 0.75mm, but may range between 0.75mm and 1.25mm.

Andrew Nyce Designs offers the option of adding edges to its Mokume Gane rings. To add edges to a Mokume Gane ring, please use the Mokume Custom Quote Form.

Edges are available in two shapes: Square or Rounded. The top and bottom surfaces of square edges are contoured to match the surfaces of the ring.» top

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Selecting a Precious Metal Ring Channel

Channels are single-piece precious metal alloy structures that provide the aesthetic appeal of both liners and edges.

ring channel

A channel draws attention to the Mokume Gane pattern by embracing it in precious metal alloys that are complementary in color.

  • Palladium-enhanced Sterling Silver
  • 950 Palladium
  • 14K Red Gold
  • 14K Yellow Gold
  • 14K White Gold
  • 14K Palladium White Gold
  • 18K Red Gold
  • 18K Royal Yellow Gold
  • 18K Palladium White Gold
  • 950 Platinum

We also offer channels made from Stainless Steel for select Men's Rings.

People with very sensitive skin may react to Sterling Silver, which is used in some of our Mokume compositions. If you have this type of sensitivity, a channel forms a barrier that limits contact between your ring finger and the Sterling Silver.

Andrew Nyce Designs designed the Embraced Collection to showcase Mokume Gane rings with channels. To view The Embraced Collection, select this link.  

Channel edges are in proportion to the width of the band of Mokume Gane. Channel edges generally are 0.75mm or wider.

Channel edges are available in two shapes: Square or Rounded. The top and bottom surfaces of square edges are contoured to match the surfaces of the ring.» top

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Selecting a Precious Metal Inlaid Band

An Inlaid Band is a band of precious metal alloy that is set into the surface of the Mokume Gane band.

inlaid band

The Inlaid Band encircles the surface of the ring, complementing the Mokume pattern and color.

  • Palladium-enhanced Sterling Silver
  • 950 Palladium
  • 14K Red Gold
  • 14K Yellow Gold
  • 14K White Gold
  • 14K Palladium White Gold
  • 18K Red Gold
  • 18K Royal Yellow Gold
  • 18K Palladium White Gold
  • 22K Yellow Gold
  • 950 Platinum

Precious metal inlaid bands are approximately 25% the width of the Mokume band.

Two surface finish options are available for the inlaid bands: soft matte and polished.» top

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Selecting Ring Profile and Comfort Fit

Mokume Ring Profile and Comfort FitOne of the final steps for making a ring is applying surface contours to the top of ring profile and a Comfort Fit to the inside surface of the ring. The Top of Ring profile and Comfort Fit are independent of each other, but work together to provide overall comfort and fit.

Andrew Nyce Designs offers the following options for Top of Ring profiles:

  • Domed Across the Top
  • Flat Across the Top
  • Half Round

The amount of doming is dependent upon on the overall width and thickness of the ring. Doming is less pronounced on wider rings.

Half Round rings only can be selected on rings with narrow overall widths. For example, a 4mm wide Half Round ring would be 2mm thick while an 8mm wide Half Round ring would be 4mm thick. A 4mm thick ring would be extremely uncomfortable to wear and undesirable.

Andrew Nyce Designs offers the following options for Comfort Fit:

  • Comfort Fit
  • No Comfort Fit

Comfort Fits are standard on all Andrew Nyce Designs rings unless specifically stated otherwise. Comfort Fit rings are designed with a rounded inside; the amount of rounding is proportional to the size and width of the ring. Comfort Fit rings slide on with ease and fit more comfortably on your finger.

No Comfort Fit is essentially a flat inner ring profile. This option can be selected using the Custom Quote form.» top

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Selecting Ring Surface Finish

The sometimes subtle, sometimes dramatic contrasts between the adjacent colors in a Mokume Gane band depend upon the surface finish you choose.

Andrew Nyce Designs offers the following options for Surface Finishes:

  • Matte
  • Etched

A matte surface finish is applied to all Mokume Gane rings. Etching is an optional surface treatment.

Matte Surface Finish
Matte surface finishes are standard on all Andrew Nyce Designs rings unless specifically stated otherwise. A matte surface finish has a dull luster that is neither shiny nor reflective. The highest contrast between the adjacent Gold, Silver, Platinum, or Palladium alloys in your Mokume Gane ring is obtained with a matte surface finish. A matte surface finish is easy to maintain.

Etched Surface
Andrew Nyce Designs offers two surface finishes for Mokume Gane rings: matte and etched. A matte surface finish is standard on all Mokume Gane rings unless otherwise specified. Etching is an optional surface treatment.

An etched finish is achieved by using chemical solvents to selectively etch away material thereby providing a much greater contrast between the Mokume Gane precious metal alloys. An etched ring also has a matte surface finish.

The images show a comparison of two, three and four-tone Mokume colors, each with a matte finish and an etched surface.

Matte Finish
Etched Surface
Glacial Mist Mokume Gane Glacial Mist (Two-tone color) Etched Glacial Mist Mokume Gane
Santa Fe Mokume Gane Santa Fe (Three-tone color) Etched Santa Fe Mokume Gane
Maui Sunset Mokume Gane Maui Sunset (Four-tone color) Etched Maui Sunset Mokume Gane

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Selecting Gemstones

Andrew Nyce Designs offers precious gemstones including diamonds, sapphires, rubies and emeralds. In addition, we offer Moissanite, Tanzanite, birthstones and other semi-precious gemstones. With diamonds, in particular, it is important to identify and choose those characteristics that have the most impact on aesthetic quality and budget.

Gemstone Shape
Andrew Nyce Designs offers the following gemstone shapes: Round, Oval, Emerald, Princess, and Marquise. You are not limited to these selections and can order any shape you like.

Popular shapes available for customized engagement rings and anniversary bands
 round diamond shape  oval diamond shape  Marquise diamond shape  Princess diamond shape  Emerald diamond shape
Round Oval Marquise Princess Emerald

Diamond Color
As rated on the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) scale, diamond color ranges from D, which is totally colorless, to Z, which is a pale yellow or brown color. Diamonds that are of the very highest purity are totally colorless, and appear a bright white; these are the most rare and the most valuable.

Diamond Clarity
As rated on the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) scale, diamond clarity is divided into six categories and eleven grades ranging from those diamonds that are internally flawless (no inclusions or blemishes) to those that have obvious inclusions that can be easily seen with the naked eye. Diamonds with higher clarity grades (i.e., the fewest inclusions/blemishes) have the highest value.

Diamond Weight
The traditional unit of measure for diamonds is the carat. The cost per carat increases with respect to carat size because larger, rough diamonds are more rare. Andrew Nyce Designs offers diamonds from 0.375 to 2 carats in weight; larger size diamonds are available upon request.

To access more detailed information on helping you choose the gemstone that is right for you, select this link. » top

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Selecting a Gemstone Setting

Traditional Gemstone Settings
Andrew Nyce Designs offers gemstone settings for both engagement rings and anniversary bands. Settings are laser-welded to the ring and come in a variety of designs and materials.

There are many traditional gemstone settings. Prong and Bezel settings are the most popular.

Prong Setting
The Prong Setting consists of three, four, five or six evenly spaced prongs that cradle the gemstone and securely hold it within the mounting. A prong setting elevates the gemstone high above the base of the ring, placing the emphasis on the stone and allowing the most light to enter the diamond, intensifying its brilliance. The prong setting is the most popular gemstone setting for engagement rings.

Bezel Setting
The Bezel Setting is a collar of precious metal wraps around the gemstone surrounding it completely. A bezel setting is attached to the top of the ring, adding height and dimension. Bezels can accommodate the shape of any gemstone. Solid bezels are more traditional. A half bezel setting, where the bezel is split into two sections, is becoming more popular.

Prong and Bezel Gemstone Settings
Mokume Gane Prong Gemstone Setting Mokume Gane Bezel Gemstone Setting
Prong Setting Bezel Setting

In addition to prong and bezel settings, the following settings are available from Andrew Nyce Designs. You are not limited to these selections and can order any setting you like.

Other gemstone settings available for customized engagement rings and anniversary bands
 round tapered bezel setting setting-half-bezel setting-marquise
Round Tapered Bezel Half Bezel Marquise
setting-princess-bezel setting-princess-half-bezel setting-princess-prenotch
Princess Tapered Solid Bezel Princess Half Bezel Princess Pre-notched Bar
setting-princess setting-princess-tall setting-emerald
Princess Princess Tall Emerald Solid Base

Andrew Nyce Designs offers gemstone settings in the following materials:

  • 14K and 18K White Gold
  • 14K and 18K Yellow Gold
  • 14K Red Gold
  • 14K and 18K Palladium White Gold
  • 950 Palladium
  • 950 Platinum

Accent Gemstones
Accent gemstones can be added to complement the main gemstone on Engagement or Anniversary rings. Smaller gemstones, starting at 0.0075 carat up to 0.10 carat, are set in the Mokume Gane band. The width of the ring dictates the maximum size diamond that can be flush or channel set. Gemstones can be either Round or Square in shape.

Even if you are not selecting an engagement ring or anniversary band, you still have the option of adding a diamond or other gemstone to your ring.

Channel and Flush Set Gemstones

One way to show your sense of personal style is to have your gemstone set into the Mokume Gane band. To achieve this look, Andrew Nyce Designs offers both Flush Set and Channel Set gemstones.

Flush Set and Channel Set Gemstones
Mokume Gane Flush Set with No Bezel Mokume Gane Flush Set with Bezel Mokume Gane Channel Set
Flush Set with No Bezel Flush Set with Bezel Channel Set

Flush Set Gemstones
The Flush Setting consists of one or more gemstones that are set into the surface of the Mokume Gane band until they are nearly level. Precious metal bezels/inserts can be used for setting the gemstones into the surface of the Mokume Gane band; typically, they are not used. While aesthetically pleasing, bezels add significant cost to the price of the ring. Flush settings offer greater protection for gemstones since their edges are not exposed, leaving them less susceptible to wear and tear.

Channel Set Gemstones
The Channel Setting consists of small gemstones that are closely aligned next to one another in a groove, or channel. Typically, round gemstones are placed in a channel. Channel settings offer greater protection for gemstones since their edges are not exposed, leaving them less susceptible to wear and tear. A channel setting can be used to complement a center gemstone that has a traditional setting. Channel settings also can be used when there is no center gemstone. In this case, channel settings can make the perfect companion to a matching ring with a diamond solitaire.

Gemstones, ranging in size from 0.0075 carats up to 0.10 carats, are seated in holes or grooves that have been drilled into the surface of the ring. The width of the ring dictates the maximum size gemstone that can be Flush or Channel Set. Up to 20 Flush or Channel Set gemstones can be placed on the Mokume Gane band.

Gemstones can be either Round or Square in shape.

There are three options for arranging Flush Set gemstones on the surface of the ring:

  • Center-Aligned - gemstones are evenly spaced and follow an axis around the center of the ring
  • Random - gemstones are spaced evenly in a random pattern
  • Custom - gemstones can be placed on the ring with any pattern, spacing or grouping

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