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Education Center

Making Damascus Steel Rings

Damascus Steel Ringmaking Process

At Andrew Nyce Designs, every ring has its own story. This is the story of your unique Damascus Stainless Steel ring.

All Damascus Stainless Steel rings are handcrafted with an attention to detail. The process used to create your unique, one-of-a-kind ring is complex.

We have tried to describe this process in an easy-to-understand manner. Contact us with any questions.

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One-on-One Consultation
What's in Stock
A Trusted Supplier
From Bars to Blanks
Embraced Collection Rings
Meridian Collection Rings
Men's Collection Rings
Adding a Liner or Edges to Your Ring
Contours and Comfort
Etching the Surface
Black Oxide Coating
Finishing the Surface
Gemstones with Settings
Flush and Channel Set Gemstones
Direct to You
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One-on-One Consultation

The story begins with your initial inquiry to Andrew Nyce Designs about Damascus Stainless Steel rings and our subsequent conversation about the design of your ring. This one-on-one consultation may include deciding which ring design style, Damascus patterns, and depth of etch best suit you and your personal sense of taste and style. As part of this discussion, a decision on which ring design elements will added to your ring, including, liners, edges, channels or gemstones. » top

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What’s in Stock

We first check to see if we have Damascus Stainless Steel in the selected pattern in stock in our studio. If we do, your ring is created from this material. Skip to From Bars to Blanks.

If we do not, an order is placed for the custom made Damascus Stainless Steel in your particular pattern that we will use to make your ring. » top

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A Trusted Supplier

Several years ago, we started working with Damasteel, a Swedish company that specializes in making heat-treatable Damascus for knife makers. Through our relationship, we are able to obtain custom forged and twisted Damascus in patterns that are unique to the rings we make.

In addition, Andrew Nyce Designs is currently manufacturing its own uniquely patterned Damascus Stainless Steel which is made and processed in the United States. Our process involves a combination of diffusion bonding of 304L and 316L Stainless Steel followed by traditional Damscus Steel forging and twisting. With our process we are able to produce patterns that can not be made by Damasteel.

All Damascus patterns we use are derived from a combination of 304L and 316L stainless steel; this combination is 100% corrosion-resistant. The Damascus Stainless Steel is supplied in the form of both flat and round bars. Ring blanks are machined from these starting product forms. » top

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From Bars to Blanks

Initially, when we started making Damascus Stainless Steel rings, we used band saws, drill presses and grinding wheels to carve the rings from the bar stock. This made the fabrication of the rings very labor intensive. In order to increase productivity and lower costs, we began using a different technique. Today, we use wire EDM (Electro Discharge Machining) technology to cut ring blanks from the flat or round Damascus Stainless Steel bars. Using a drill press, holes are created in the ring blanks. Following this step, we use a bench top lathe to machine the rings blanks to final dimensions. » top

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Embraced Collection Rings

If you selected a channel for your Damascus Stainless Steel ring, a tube of Gold, Palladium-enhanced Sterling Silver, Platinum, or Palladium alloy with a wall thickness of between 0.75mm and 1mm and an overall width of 10mm to 12 mm is used as the channel. The tube is placed inside the Damascus Stainless Steel band and soldered to it. The ends of the tube are forged around the Damascus Stainless Steel band to form the edges of the channel. The edges can be rounded to match the height of the domed profile of the Damascus band.

If you selected a Stainless Steel channel for your ring, a tube of Stainless Steel is used as the channel. First, a groove is machined into the tube. The tube is placed inside the Damascus Stainless Steel band. Then, the tube is stretched in order to capture the Damascus Stainless Steel band in the groove. » top

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Meridian Collection Rings

If you selected an inlaid band for your Damascus Stainless Steel ring, a square wire of Gold, Palladium-enhanced Sterling Silver, Platinum, or Palladium alloy is used as the inlaid band. A narrow channel is formed along the centerline of the Damascus band using either hand tools or a mini lathe. Then, the square wire is fitted into to the channel and soldered in place. » top

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Men's Collection Rings

If you selected a precious metal channel for your BOLD Damascus Stainless Steel ring, the process is the same as for Embraced rings. If you selected a Stainless Steel channel for your BOLD ring, a tube of Stainless Steel is used as the channel. First, a groove is machined into the tube. The tube is placed inside the Damascus Stainless Steel band. Then, the tube is stretched in order to capture the Damascus Stainless Steel band in the groove.

For JET Racer rings, a narrow channel is formed along the centerline of the Damascus band using either hand tools or a mini lathe. Then, a precious metal alloy square wire is fitted into to the channel and soldered in place. » top

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Adding a Liner or Edges to Your Ring

If you selected a liner for your Damascus Stainless Steel ring, a tube of Gold, Palladium-enhanced Sterling Silver, Platinum, or Palladium alloy with a wall thickness of between 0.75mm and 1mm is used as the liner. The tube is placed inside the Damascus Stainless Steel band and soldered to it.

If you selected edges for your Damascus Stainless Steel ring, two narrow rings of Gold, Platinum, or Palladium alloy between 0.75mm and 1mm wide are used. These rings are placed along the side of the Damascus Stainless Steel band and soldered to it. » top

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Contours and Comfort

Preliminary finishing operations are performed in order to build in surface contours and comfort fits. We use a combination of hand tools and high speed abrasive and polishing equipment to accomplish this. » top

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Etching the Surface

After contouring, comfort fit, and tumble hardening, the Damascus Stainless Steel band is etched by placing it in a heated, magnetically-stirred polyethylene or Pyrex glass container filled with acid. After etching, the Damascus band is first placed in a rinse containing baking soda to neutralize any residual acid. Then, the Damascus band is placed in an ultrasonic cleaner to remove by-products from the etching process.

Black Oxide Coating

An optional black oxide coating can be applied by heating the ring in an oxygen-containing atmosphere at a high enough temperature to form a wear-resistant layer of complex oxides (comprising iron, chromium, and nickel) on the surface of the etched Damascus Stainless Steel. This blackening treatment is followed by removal of the oxide from the top most surfaces, leaving black oxides in the etched recesses of the Damascus.

Finishing the Surface

The surfaces of your ring are finished either by applying a matte finish or high polish. The ring is cleaned in a high-pressure steam in order to remove remnants of the finishing medium. » top

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Gemstones with Settings

If you selected a diamond or other gemstone for your Damascus Stainless Steel ring, a setting of 14K or 18K Gold, Platinum, or Palladium is laser welded to the ring. The gemstone is set. Final finishing for the setting and weld area is performed.

Flush or Channel Set Diamonds and Other Gemstones

If you selected a flush set diamond or other gemstone for your Damascus Stainless Steel ring, a hole is drilled through the surface of the ring at the appropriate location. A setting tool is used to form a seat in the hole on which the gemstone will sit. The gemstone is placed in the hole and is pressed onto the seat. A special tool is used to move a small amount of metal over the top edge of the gemstone all the way around; this action sets the gemstone in place. As a final step, the edges of the hole are cleaned up. Multiple flush set gemstones can be placed on a ring.

If you selected channel set diamonds or other gemstones for your Damascus Stainless Steel ring, a groove is formed on the surface of the ring using high-speed cutting tools. A seat is formed within the groove on which the gemstones will sit. Preliminary cleaning of the groove is performed to ensure uniformity. Then, the gemstones are set in the groove and pushed against the seat. A special tool is used to move a small amount of metal over the top edge of the gemstones; this action sets the gemstones in place. As a final step, the edges of the groove are cleaned up.» top

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Direct to You

The entire ring-making process takes place over a period of between 4 to 6 weeks. The final step in this process involves inspecting the completed ring, packaging it, and shipping it directly to you. » top

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