An exclusive new Stainless Steel Mokume Gane composition, named Shadows and Light, has been developed by Andrew in his studio. The new composition, comprising 40 layers of 316 stainless steel and platinum-enhanced sterling silver, is made using our Contour (random) patterning technique. Rings made with this innovative Mokume composition have been selected to launch Andrew Nyce Designs’ newest line: the Mokume Gane Men’s Collection.

Typically, Mokume Gane utilizes alternating layers of precious metals including gold, platinum, palladium and silver alloys. Traditional Japanese Mokume Gane was made by combining various copper alloys. Other metals and alloys have been incorporated into modern Mokume compositions. However, Andrew is the first metalsmith to successfully marry 316 stainless steel with precious metals through the use of solid-state diffusion bonding, hot forging, and cold rolling.

Andrew Nyce Designs plans to expand its line of Stainless Steel Mokume Gane with an 18K yellow gold and 316 stainless steel Mokume composition. The new composition will be introduced in Fall 2009 as part of the Mokume Men’s Collection. It also will feature a stainless steel channel which is the standard for all Mokume Gane rings in the Men’s Collection.

Our new Mokume Men’s rings marry the ancient Japanese metalworking art of Mokume Gane with the craftsmanship of Damascus Steel. The origin of both these techniques is rooted firmly in swordmaking. Mokume Gane Men’s rings offer the strength and fortitude that mirror their history.

Jewelry Studio Notes (a technical discussion of Andrew’s work on Stainless Steel Mokume)

Leading up to his new development, Andrew reviewed the current research that touched upon a stainless steel and precious metal Mokume. In 2004, Jim Binnion demonstrated that 22K gold and pure iron as well as platinum and pure iron could be bonded and subsequently processed into twist patterned Mokume Gane rings. However, in his 2002 book “Mokume Gane”, Ian Ferguson stated that the fine silver and stainless steel Mokume Gane is not at all malleable: microscopic examination showed massive disintegration of the stainless steel layers. According to Ferguson, “in this respect, it cannot be considered a true Mokume Gane at all, as the pattern cannot be controlled. It must be deformed red hot using a power hammer and must be hot rolled, it requires; it requires frequent annealing, there is massive extrusion of the fine silver at the edges and often tearing through the sheet. It presents an interesting natural disintegrated pattern and can be patinated in a range of colors. Due to forming difficulties, it is recommended to use the material in the flat form.”

According to Andrew, “this prior work painted a very discouraging backdrop against which I attempted to bond 316 stainless steel to precious metal alloys. Binnion’s work using pure iron is impressive, but his results do not suggest that bonding 316 stainless steel would be possible. Pure iron is very soft and unlike 316 stainless does not form any oxides that would impede bonding. Stainless steel, on the other hand, forms a tough chromium oxide layer that makes solid state diffusion bonding problematic.”

Nevertheless, Andrew was able to use the metallurgical principles to successfully bond 316 stainless steel to platinum-enhanced sterling silver as well as to 18K yellow gold. “The melting points of the sterling silver and the 18K yellow gold were critical to the success of bonding with the 316 stainless steel. The annealing temperature of the 316 stainless steel/18K yellow gold and the 316 stainless steel/Sterling in between cold pressing and cold rolling must be high enough to anneal the 316 stainless steel, but not to melt the sterling silver or the 18K yellow gold. Metallurgical phase diagrams were used to determine feasibility of diffusion bonding and to determine whether any low melting phase would form during processing. Cold and hot forging along with cold rolling were successfully employed in producing both contour patterned Mokume Gane compositions.”

“I am currently testing these materials for use in making twist-patterned Mokume Gane. The use of carbon-containing protective atmospheres was shown to be a problem that was solved by “canning” the Mokume during annealing and hot forging. The bonded 316 Stainless steel and 18K yellow gold and 316 stainless steel and platinum-enhanced sterling silver could be cold rolled by as much as 15% between anneals without bond failure.”

These new Stainless Steel Mokume Gane compositions have the following advantages:

• They are inherently more wear-resistant because of the 316 stainless steel
• The 316 stainless steel imparts a color similar to platinum, but a luster that is richer
• A black oxide coating can be applied to the 316 stainless steel for added contrast
• They are potentially less expensive than a 14K palladium white gold and sterling silver Mokume composition
• The ability to etch either the 316 stainless or the sterling silver (Shadows and Light Mokume)

The potential cost savings, compared to typical precious metal Mokume Gane compositions, will depend upon our ability to find a company who can refine Mokume Gane compositions containing stainless steel. One refiner has turned us down, but another refiner has indicated that they will evaluate the feasibility of refining our scrap. If we cannot find refiners who are able to do this, Andrew Nyce Designs is committed to developing the technology ourselves.